Shilin Night Market

This guide to Shilin Night Market in Taipei traces the decade-long fight over its future: a century of street stalls born beside a Keelung River wharf, torn down in 2002, then relocated into a 2011 plan for an air-conditioned basement food court with room for only ninety-four of more than one hundred fifty vendors. One oyster omelet seller called the move groundbreaking; others were certain their regulars would never follow them down a stairwell.