Raohe Night Market

This guide to Raohe Night Market in Taipei starts at the sesame-and-pepper bun oven by the east gate and traces the street back to its start as a riverside wet market beside centuries-old Ciyou Temple, a shrine begun in 1753. It follows the road's decline once it stopped being a main route, and the 1987 flip that turned closing time into opening time. Listen for the temple at one end and the oven's charcoal glow at the other.