Gongguan Night Market

This guide to Gongguan Night Market in Taipei follows a scallion-pancake stall called Hsiung Chi, tucked into a lane near National Taiwan University, from a student hangout that grew up beside Shuiyuan Market around 1980 into a spot with a line that loops back on itself. Vendors first set up along Roosevelt Road to catch students pouring out of class, and the same couple has worked the griddle by hand ever since, folding dough with honey mustard and basil.