Lisbon’s gardens, hills and everyday life

Start on Praça da Estrela, the square in front of the Basilica of Estrela, where the 28 tram stops. Stand facing the church, with its two bell towers and the great white dome rising behind them; the railings and trees of Jardim da Estrela, your next stop, are across the road behind you. This walk goes up and down several of Lisbon's hills, so take it at an easy pace. Look up at the dome from the square, then press Play.

From the basilica, cross Praça da Estrela at the crossing and go in through the garden gates on the far side. It is a flat four-minute stroll of under 300 metres. Once inside, keep to the paths as they wind between the big old trees and the pond; the stop is in the heart of the garden, among the benches and ornamental trees, and will be on your left. There is no single landmark to aim for, so this is the place to slow down and let the city noise drop away behind the railings.

Thread back out of the garden the way the paths lead and cross to Rua da Estrela, following it as it bends. Turn left onto Rua Coelho da Rocha, a quiet residential street of the Campo de Ourique neighbourhood. It is about 500 metres, seven minutes. Casa Fernando Pessoa is on your right a short way along Rua Coelho da Rocha: the house where the poet spent his last years, now a museum devoted to him. Press Play on the pavement outside before you go in.

This is the longest leg: about 1.6 kilometres, nineteen minutes. Head east on Rua Coelho da Rocha and keep left to take Rua Saraiva de Carvalho, which carries you most of the way across Campo de Ourique. Turn right onto Rua do Sol ao Rato and cross the busy junction of Largo do Rato, then follow Rua da Escola Politécnica all the way to Praça do Príncipe Real, where the garden fills the square, and the stop is on your right under the trees. You will know it by its huge cedar, trained flat over an iron trellis to make a wide green canopy.

Leave the garden and pick up Rua Dom Pedro V, which carries you for most of this six-minute, 500-metre leg; it runs along the ridge above Bairro Alto. Where the houses give way to a terraced garden with a long balustrade, you have reached the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. Step up to the balustrade and the whole of the lower town lies spread out below you, with the castle on the hill opposite. This is the view to press Play on.

A short three-minute hop of about 250 metres. Walk back out of the miradouro and continue in the same direction along Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara, which carries on from the viewpoint. It brings you to a small square where the Igreja de São Roque is on your left. Do not be put off by the outside: the front is plain, almost severe, and gives no hint of what waits inside, which is exactly what the guide is for.

A two-minute hop of about 160 metres. Cross Largo Trindade Coelho, the square in front of the church, and turn right onto Rua Nova da Trindade. Cervejaria Trindade is on your left a little way down: a beer hall and restaurant housed in a former convent, and a Lisbon institution for well over a century. You can hear the guide from the pavement, or step inside for a look at the dining rooms.

Continue along Rua Nova da Trindade, following it round as it turns, until it meets Rua Garrett; turn left. Three minutes, a little over 200 metres. You are now in Chiado, the city's old literary and shopping quarter, and Rua Garrett is its main street: tram tracks down the middle, bookshops and cafés along both pavements. The stop is on your right, just after the turn. Stand on the pavement here, out of the way of the tram, and press Play.

Walk up Rua Garrett to Largo do Chiado and keep left through the square, continuing straight on along Rua da Horta Seca. Bear right onto Travessa do Sequeiro, then turn left onto Rua Marechal Saldanha, which brings you to the viewpoint. About 600 metres and eight minutes through the streets of the Santa Catarina quarter. The miradouro is a wide terrace on the hillside; you have arrived when the river opens out in front of you and you see the great stone figure of Adamastor, the giant from Camões, hunched at the edge of the terrace.

Leave the terrace and return along Rua Marechal Saldanha, this time following it all the way to Calçada do Combro, where you turn left. Five minutes, under 300 metres. At the corner with Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo you reach the top of the Bica funicular: the little yellow car waits at its upper station here, and the street falls away steeply below it towards the river. This is the stop. Stand at the top of the slope, where the tracks begin, and press Play.

Walk down to the river on foot rather than riding the funicular: from Largo do Calhariz take Rua das Chagas, bear left onto Rua do Ataíde and follow it round, then turn right onto Rua das Flores, which carries you downhill towards the riverside. About 580 metres, six minutes, mostly downhill. At the bottom turn left onto Rua Nova do Carvalho. You cannot miss the arrival: the roadway itself is painted pink from wall to wall. The stop is on your left, a few steps in.

Two minutes, under 200 metres. Walk back along Rua Nova do Carvalho, leaving the pink paving behind, and cut through the short side streets, Travessa da Ribeira Nova and then Rua da Ribeira Nova, to Rua do Instituto Dona Amélia, where you turn left. The long market hall of the Mercado da Ribeira is on your right; Time Out Market is the food hall inside it, and the market building is the stop. Press Play before you go in, while you can still see the hall from outside.

A level twelve-minute walk of about a kilometre along the river. Go down Rua do Instituto Dona Amélia to Avenida 24 de Julho, turn left, and cross to the waterfront at Cais do Sodré. From there follow the quays east along the Tagus, with the water on your right the whole way, along Cais das Pombas and the riverside path beyond it. The path brings you to the great open square on the waterfront; the stop is at its river edge, where two stone columns stand in the water at the top of a short flight of steps. That is Cais das Colunas.

Turn your back to the river and walk straight across the square, four minutes, about 200 metres. The arch is in front of you the whole way: the tall triumphal archway at the top of the square, with the king's statue on horseback in the middle of the square before it. Pass under the arch and you are at the beginning of Rua Augusta, the pedestrian street that runs through the Baixa. The stop is here, just inside the arch; turn round and look back through it to the river before you press Play.

Walk up Rua Augusta and turn right onto Rua da Conceição, then thread north through the grid of the Baixa, with a stretch along Rua de Santa Justa, until the straight streets give out. Rua dos Condes de Monsanto and then Rua do Arco do Marquês de Alegrete lead you out of the flat lower town, and the ground begins to rise towards the castle hill. About 1.1 kilometres, fifteen minutes in all. Turn right onto Rua da Senhora da Saúde; the stop is on your left, where the streets narrow and the houses close in around you: this is Mouraria, the old Moorish quarter.

The final leg is the climb: 800 metres and thirteen minutes, nearly all uphill. Double back and take Rua Fernandes da Fonseca, then turn through the lanes of Mouraria, Rua Marquês de Ponte de Lima, Rua da Amendoeira and Beco da Amendoeira, until you come out on Calçada de Santo André. Turn right and go up it, then left onto Calçada da Graça, which climbs steadily to the top of the hill. The terrace of the Miradouro da Graça lies beside the Graça church at the summit; you have arrived when the city opens out below you, the castle on the next hill and the river beyond it. Sit down, catch your breath, and press Play.