Yangmingshan National Park

This guide to Yangmingshan National Park in Taipei follows a 2009 discovery that upended what six million people believed about the volcano they live beside, after a Taiwanese-Russian research team found eruption debris far younger than anyone had assumed. It walks the Tatun Volcanic Group's overlapping cones, the sulfur vents at Xiaoyoukeng, and the tiny earthquakes scientists have traced beneath the park, then turns to why Chiang Kai-shek renamed this mountain from Grass Mountain in 1950. Follow your nose toward Xiaoyoukeng, the smell reaches you before the view does.