Bairro Alto

This guide to Bairro Alto in Lisbon opens on the earthquake of All Saints' Day 1755, when the ground split beneath Lisbon and fires and a tsunami levelled the city below, while this hilltop grid, planned in 1513, held. It follows what moved into the surviving streets afterward: printers and newspapers, then the bars and taverns that followed them, and the artists and poets who arrived after. Listen for how two streets came to be named after the papers that once ran there.