Alfama

This guide to Alfama in Lisbon opens on All Saints' Day 1755, the morning an earthquake, fires and a tsunami levelled most of the city below, while this hillside quarter, built on solid bedrock, stood untouched. It follows streets laid out under Moorish rule in the eighth century, and the fishermen, sailors and washerwomen who filled the neighborhood after the wealthy rebuilt elsewhere. Listen for what took root in its cramped taverns in the years that followed.