Podgórze

This guide to Podgórze in Kraków opens in 1943 behind a pharmacy counter, as a mother sedates her sleeping toddler to keep him quiet while soldiers search the street. It centers on Tadeusz Pankiewicz, the one non-Jewish Pole allowed to keep a shop open inside the walled ghetto the Nazis sealed off here in March 1941, and on what he chose to do with that permission once thousands of Jewish families were forced into these few blocks. Listen for the pharmacy's old address as you walk the square, now the site of the district's memorial.