Kazimierz

This guide to Kazimierz in Kraków starts with a Hollywood trick: the wooden ghetto wall Steven Spielberg's crew built here in 1993 for Schindler's List, standing in for a ghetto that in reality sat across the river in Podgórze. It traces Kazimierz's real story instead, as the center of Polish Jewish life for four centuries after Jews expelled from Kraków's Old Town resettled here in 1495 and built synagogue after synagogue, roughly sixty-four thousand strong by its peak. Walk the square slowly and look for the Hebrew lettering back on the cafe signs today.