Jawahar Circle

This guide to Jawahar Circle in Jaipur opens at the nine-arched gate built by the Rajasthan Patrika newspaper group in 2015, its frescoes and numerology echoing the eight original gates Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II sealed the walled city behind in 1727. From there it follows the debate over whether a newspaper's monument counts as heritage, with critics dismissing it as a marketing stunt built to guard no wall. Architect Anoop Barataria, a Jaipur local, is the one who had to answer for the numbers.