Vothonas

This guide to Vothonas in Santorini follows Grigorios Koutsogiannopoulos, who began digging a wine cellar into the island's volcanic rock in 1870 and kept boring sideways until visitors could lose their bearings inside. Four generations of his family have kept pouring wine from that same tunnel, and the guide traces what they were really after in this ash-dry soil: protection for a vine that a louse called phylloxera could never reach. Some of the vines growing outside are said to be over a century old, trained low and coiled into baskets against the wind rather than up a trellis.