Hatzidakis Winery

This guide to Hatzidakis Winery on Santorini starts with a farmer's dry storage cave and a vineyard abandoned after the 1956 earthquake sent islanders abroad and left the vines untended for decades. It follows a 1996 visit that brought oenologist Haridimos Hatzidakis to his girlfriend's forgotten family plot, and the idea he had about the old tool cave cut into the rock. Santorini's volcanic soil, with no clay in it, kept a devastating nineteenth-century vineyard pest called phylloxera from ever reaching these vines, some of which are said to run centuries deep.