Oia

This guide to Oia in Santorini reads the cliffside itself as a map of class: plain stone archways cut low into the rock, marking sailors' one-room homes, beneath neoclassical mansions built by the ship owners who employed them. It follows the village's nineteenth-century shipping economy, the wine and volcanic ash its fleet carried across the Mediterranean, and the deliberately unremarkable doorways meant to keep pirates and tax collectors from noticing what lay behind them. A sailor could be gone half a year on one of those runs, coming home to a cave barely two paces wide while his captain slept behind a fresco-painted loggia above.