Ammoudi Bay

This guide to Ammoudi Bay below Oia in Santorini centers on a donkey named Andrew, who in the early 1980s served as the harbor's entire supply chain down nearly three hundred stone steps cut into the cliff. It follows the fisherman Paraskevas and his wife Margarita, who opened the bay's first restaurant around 1980 after mornings of hauling in more fish than they could sell. Long before that, this same cove worked as a transshipment port where Oia's merchant captains loaded and unloaded cargo, its stone warehouses still standing despite a major 1956 earthquake. Half a dozen tavernas today grill the day's catch just steps from where the fishing boats still tie up.