Vallon des Auffes

This guide to the Vallon des Auffes in Marseille opens with the 1980 charter a group of restaurateurs wrote to fix the rules for real bouillabaisse, after the fisherman's stew had drifted into an expensive, watered-down tourist dish. It follows the cove's pointu boats and the restaurant Chez Fonfon, founded by Alphonse Mounier around 1954 and still run on the same family recipe four generations later. You'll also hear where the valley's own name comes from, tied to a trade older than the fish.