Marché aux Poissons

This guide to the Marche aux Poissons in Marseille follows the city's century-old refusal to sell its catch at auction, tracing the old criee's move from Quai de Rive Neuve out to the port of Saumaty. It centers on one family's trawler, the Requin, the husband working the calanques and the Frioul waters for turbot, sole and octopus while his wife holds the quay each morning, calling out prices as the ice arrives. Visit before eight, when the boats are still tying up and the ice is still glistening.