Anse de la Fausse Monnaie

This guide to the Anse de la Fausse Monnaie in Marseille starts with the winter ritual of cracking open sea urchins bare-handed on the rocks, a tradition locals call the oursinade. From there it turns to the cove's puzzling name, false money, and the competing stories about where it came from, from a buried coin legend tied to an 1863 viaduct to an older map that called this gully something else entirely. Wooden pointu boats are still moored on these rocks, a few steps from the three-Michelin-star kitchen along the shore.