Calle Caballeros

This guide to Calle Caballeros in Valencia follows the street from its noble palaces, the Fuentehermosa, the Mercader, the counts of Alpont, to number twenty-two, the Malferit family's fifteenth-century home turned inside out in 2007 into fifteen rooms of hand-painted miniature soldiers. It traces a collection assembled over decades, and painters who worked one soldier, one buckle, one flag at a time. You'll hear just how vast that collection has grown. Push open the doors and look for the Gothic bones still holding up all those tiny armies.