Museo Nacional de Cerámica y Artes Suntuarias "González Martí

This guide to Valencia's National Ceramics Museum, set in the former Palacio del Marques de Dos Aguas, opens with a gilded state carriage that never really needed to go anywhere, built in 1753 to be watched, not used. It follows the Rabassa de Perellos family, grown rich on regional tax contracts, and the artists they hired, painter Hipolito Rovira and sculptor Ignacio Vergara, who carved the alabaster doorway outside into a pun on the family name. It also climbs to the ballroom, where musicians once played from a hidden gallery so the music seemed to come from nowhere. Look closely at the doorway's water-pouring figures before stepping inside.