Waldwirtschaft

This guide to the Waldwirtschaft beer garden in Munich follows the owners who passed it down since a pardoned French general built a brewery on this bluff above the Isar in 1820, and the second life publican Sepp Kratz gave it in 1981 with live jazz under the chestnut trees. It turns on the summer of 1995, when neighbors' noise complaints and a Bavarian court order threatened to silence the music at nine o'clock. Tens of thousands of drinkers marched with tankards raised into Marienplatz to make their case.