St Sebastian's Cemetery

This guide to St Sebastian's Cemetery in Salzburg asks who is really buried in the gold-topped chapel at its center, then answers with prince-archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau, the man who tore down Salzburg's medieval cathedral and began the marble one that still shapes the skyline today. It follows his rise to become arguably the most powerful churchman north of Italy, the campo santo he built between 1595 and 1600 with that chapel meant as his own tomb, and the 1611 dispute with the Duke of Bavaria that turned his own nephew and chosen successor against him. Look around the arcades, where paupers, plague victims and the physician Paracelsus also rest.