Fortress Hohensalzburg

This guide to Fortress Hohensalzburg in Salzburg follows the Reisszug, the wooden hoist still bolted to the cliff behind you, back to Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach's building campaign around fourteen ninety-six. It traces what that rope carried up the rock face over the centuries that followed, from roof shingles to the food and firewood that kept the guards above alive through winter, hauled by anonymous men walking in slow circles. Listen for the creak of rope against wood as you look toward the courtyard.