Kadıköy Balık Pazarı

This guide to Kadikoy Balik Pazari in Istanbul walks the narrow lane of stalls on the Asian shore, from glistening sea bass and octopus to the small dark hamsi that defines Black Sea fishing, and the honey, cheese, and olives that fan out beyond the fish counters. You'll hear how the local trick works - buying your catch at one stall and carrying it to a nearby restaurant to be grilled - and how the neighborhood grew in layers of Turkish, Greek, and Armenian traders over three centuries. Go on a weekday morning, when the crowd is still mostly Istanbulites.