Kadıköy Moda Sahil Parkı ve Yürüyüş Yolu

This guide to the Moda waterfront promenade in Kadıköy, Istanbul opens two and a half millennia ago, when Greek settlers picked this shore of the Bosphorus over the one that would become Constantinople, a choice a Persian general later mocked as blind. It traces the neighborhood's name changes, from Chalcedon to Kadıköy after the city's first appointed judge, and its nineteenth-century turn as a fashionable retreat for Greek, Armenian and Levantine families. A vintage tram still runs the shore road it has followed since 2003, past bookshops with cats in the doorways.