Mercado de Campo de Ourique

This guide to the Mercado de Campo de Ourique in Lisbon contrasts the neighborhood market, open since 1934, with the tourist-swarmed Time Out Market that reworked Lisbon's old waterfront hall. It follows the market through a 2013 renovation that added cafés without erasing the original produce stalls, and into the quiet, residential district that still surrounds it. The guide points to something specific worth watching for once you're inside: how directly the fish and vegetables travel from stall to kitchen. It's a look at what a Lisbon market feels like when the customers are still mostly the neighbors.