Castelo de São Jorge

This guide to Castelo de São Jorge in Lisbon returns to 1147, when Portugal's first king, Afonso Henriques, besieged this Moorish hilltop fortress for four months with the help of crusader ships bound for the Holy Land. It follows the moment a gate swung open and a knight named Martim Moniz made a choice, and the centuries of Romans, Visigoths, Moors and Portuguese kings who held this hill before and after. Look for his name below, at the square named for him at the foot of the hill.