St. Peter's Church

This guide to St. Peter's Church in Cusco starts at the frog-juice stall outside its doors, where vendors blend a live frog into a cure-all breakfast drink, then traces the ground beneath it back to a hospital founded in 1556 for the city's indigenous poor. It follows the earthquake of 1650 that brought down the first chapel, and Bishop Manuel de Mollinedo's rebuild between 1688 and 1699 with the Cusco architect Juan Tomás Tuyro Túpac. The neighborhood around the church has never stopped smelling of herbs, fruit, and, some mornings, frog.