Saint Peter the Apostle of Andahuaylillas

This guide to Saint Peter the Apostle in Andahuaylillas, near Cusco, opens with a painted rope above the front door, one end tied to a man in a bedsheet, the other yanked by a devil paddling drunks toward hell. You'll hear about Luis de Riaño, the painter behind this so-called Sistine Chapel of the Andes, and about a local curaca drinking chicha in that canoe, a warning aimed at Quechua parishioners by parish priest Juan Pérez Bocanegra. Look up at native fruit, parrots and llamas woven into the ceiling alongside the saints.