Kwai Chai Hong

This guide walks Kwai Chai Hong, a lane behind Petaling Street whose name means Little Ghost Lane, from its noisy mid-century daily life of marble games, a knife sharpener and a calligrapher, through gangs and decades of decline. It follows Zeen Chang, who fell for the crumbling alley anyway and in 2019 poured funds into restoring it with murals of the vanished street life. Notice the old lamppost at the far end as you go.