Old China Cafe

This guide to Old China Cafe in Kuala Lumpur follows Leonard Tee, a film producer who arrived in 1997 to find an abandoned laundrymen's guild hall on Jalan Balai Polis, its saloon doors and marble tables untouched since the 1920s. It traces the discarded family photographs he refused to throw away, and his own roots among the Baba Nyonya of Penang. Look for the two feng shui mirrors still facing each other across the room.