Museo de Arte Moderno

This guide to the Museo de Arte Moderno in Mexico City opens with a 1947 government receipt: four thousand pesos, plus thirty six for the frame, paid by Mexico's Institute of Fine Arts to Frida Kahlo for a painting hanging steps from where you stand. You'll hear how Las Dos Fridas splits her in two on the canvas after her divorce from Diego Rivera, one figure in a European gown with an open heart, the other whole and holding her twin's hand. It traces that check to what became the highest price Kahlo was ever paid in her lifetime, long before anyone grasped what the canvas would be worth.