Jardín Hidalgo

This guide to Jardín Hidalgo in Coyoacán, Mexico City, opens with the yearly Independence Day shout from the plaza's mayor, then turns to the people who keep the square running the other three hundred sixty-four days. You'll hear how President Porfirio Díaz gave Coyoacán its French-style iron kiosk in nineteen hundred, and what got lost when the structure was later moved onto a raised base. The guide also follows the boleros, balloon sellers and weekend cooks who inherited their patch of pavement from a parent before them.