Miaâra

This guide to the Miaara in Marrakesh, Morocco's oldest and largest Jewish cemetery, opens with the local story of Rabbi Pinchas HaCohen, said to have once saved the life of Thami El Glaoui, the pasha who ruled the city for decades. You'll hear about the blue-painted tombs of the kohanim near the entrance, kept apart by tradition even in death, and about a wide unmarked field to the side. Listen for how differently the cemetery treats one remembered debt and one collective loss.