Hivernage

This guide to Hivernage in Marrakesh traces a strict old rule, no casino inside the city walls, and how it pushed a hotelier out past the ramparts in the early 1950s into a garden suburb colonial planners had begun laying out decades earlier for winter-fleeing Europeans. It follows the district's wide avenues and shade rules back to 1920s urban design, and the hotel and gaming tables that gave the neighborhood its new international pull. Listen for how the maturity of the trees still marks the plan's age.