Woljeongri Beach

This guide to Woljeongri Beach on Jeju traces a fishing village built entirely around one catch, the anchovy, from a local pun on the village's own name to the island's first fishing cooperative in the 1920s and the stone weirs villagers built to trap the schools. It follows the village into the 2010s, when three women from the mainland opened a small cafe with a window facing the water. Listen for how a shoreline that once fed on fish found a very different way to draw a crowd.