Marado

This guide to Marado, Korea's southernmost inhabited islet, opens with dueling black-bean noodle shops lining the docks, each claiming to be the original. It traces the story back to a 1997 phone-company commercial shot here, and the catchphrase that turned an invented ad into a national craving. Count the identical hand-lettered signs as you walk the lane from the ferry dock, each one making the same claim.