안돌오름

This guide to Andol Oreum on Jeju opens with UNESCO's 2016 listing of a sound: the sharp whistling gasp Jeju's haenyeo divers make breaking the surface after diving deep for abalone and urchin, no tank at all. From there it traces that sound back to the lava Mount Halla spilled long before anyone dove for anything, and to this satellite cone the eruptions left behind. A Joseon-era landowner once sealed the hill inside a stone wall as private pasture, open to hikers only in recent years. The crater at the top is worth pausing at, packed dense with cypress rather than bare ash.