Shinsegae Department Store, Centum City

This guide to Shinsegae Department Store's Centum City branch in Busan holds two records at once: a Guinness-certified claim to being the world's largest department store, and a basement bathhouse where women known as seshin ajumma have scrubbed skin by hand for decades. You'll hear how their tool, the so-called Italy towel, began as an imported fabric a local executive found unfit for its original use. It's a guide about the gap between marble floors upstairs and hard, repetitive work below.