Wagner Municipal Market

This guide to Milan's Wagner Municipal Market traces the covered hall's rocky start: built in 1929 as the city's first municipal market, its iron-and-glass structure burned to the ground before it had truly opened. It follows the postwar rebuilding effort that reopened the market in 1948, stall by stall, in the hungry years after the war, and the 2004 renovation that modernized it without losing its bones. Listen for the clatter of butchers, fishmongers and bakers calling out orders as you walk the counters.