Basilica di Santo Stefano, Bologna

This guide to the Basilica di Santo Stefano in Bologna traces a medieval discovery beneath the church: a stone coffin carved with the name Symon, which pilgrims took to mean the bones of Saint Peter himself. It follows the flood of pilgrims that discovery set off, redirecting traffic away from Rome, and the papacy's own uneasy response. Listen for how a modest church built for two little-known martyrs, Vitale and Agricola, became something else entirely.