Mapusa Municipal Market

This guide to Mapusa Municipal Market in Goa opens with a promise of thirty crore rupees for a market that still looks the way it did when it opened in 1960. It follows two chief ministers' pledges to rebuild the five blocks of stalls selling chourico, kokum, live chickens and spice, and the years of council arguments over a single canopy that followed. Along the way it lingers on the vendors, mostly women who have worked these same stalls for decades, wary of any plan that changes their shop count.