Mackies

This guide to Mackies in Goa traces the start of this Saturday night market on the banks of the Baga River, born around 2013 out of a falling-out among the people running Goa's original beach bazaar in nearby Arpora. It follows the rivalry that grew from that split, two markets close enough to hear each other's bands, and the argument locals still have over which one is the real original. Along the way it moves through the market itself: jewelry and craft stalls, a dance floor sliding from Goan folk into jazz, an archery stall beside a henna artist, and fire dancers working a circle near the food. Go on a Saturday night and listen for both bands playing at once across the water.