Yemin Moshe

This guide to Yemin Moshe in Jerusalem opens in 1948, when British soldiers climbed a hilltop windmill with orders to blow it apart after fighters turned it into a sniper's post. Sir Moses Montefiore had built the mill in 1857 to draw Jewish families to live outside the crowded Old City walls, though almost no one wanted to until a cholera outbreak made the choice for them. Look up at the plaques on the tower that the soldiers stopped to read.