Echo Beach, Canggu

This guide to Echo Beach in Canggu traces how the beach earned its nickname from waves echoing off the cliffside Hindu temple behind you, and what its black volcanic sand hides: a rip current strong enough to be dangerous. It follows how that same current shapes the offshore sandbank and the waves that made this a destination for surfers worldwide. Fifteen years ago, the track down to this water had one juice stand and cattle wandering where scooters now queue.