Tabán

This guide to Tabán in Budapest tells the story of Rácváros, the Serbian refugee quarter that grew up on this hillside after Christian forces retook Buda in 1686, and the cathedral of Saint Demetrius its community built and rebuilt over two centuries. It follows the church through Ottoman-era origins, a 1930s demolition of the surrounding district, and a 1945 wartime bombing that brought down its spire. Before that, Tabán was known as Budapest's own Montmartre, its narrow streets full of taverns and bohemian bars.