Erzsébetváros

This guide to Erzsébetváros in Budapest starts in a courtyard bar loud with music and cocktails, then rewinds sixty years to November 1944, when Hungary's Arrow Cross fascists walled these same streets into the Pest Ghetto behind hastily built fencing. It follows what happened to the district's grand synagogues and its residents in the months that followed, then jumps forward to 2004, when four friends looked at one collapsing block and saw a bar instead. Linger a while in the mismatched courtyard furniture before you move on to the next street.