Fodele

This guide to Fodele in Heraklion tells of Domenikos Theotokopoulos, born in this valley in 1541 under Venetian rule and later known across Spain as El Greco. It traces his early years near the Byzantine church of Panagia, his move to Toledo, and how his Byzantine training collided with Venetian color into a style the city had never seen. Start at the old stone house on the village square, then walk down to the church and the river beyond it.