El Greco Museum

This guide to the El Greco Museum near Heraklion follows the painter who left a Cretan village in 1567 for Venice, Rome and finally Toledo, yet kept signing his work with his Greek birth name and the word for Cretan. For centuries no one in Crete knew exactly where he grew up, until a note in his own papers surfaced among Spanish scholars in 1937, describing a childhood home beside an eleventh-century Byzantine chapel. Listen for how that same small chapel still stands a few steps from the farmhouse today.