Russafa

This guide to Russafa in Valencia traces the neighborhood from its start as a Moorish garden retreat built by an eighth-century prince, through its transformation into a working-class barrio fed by the rainbow-striped Mercado de Ruzafa built in nineteen fifty-seven. It follows the daily rhythm of esmorzaret, the mid-morning second breakfast eaten standing at the market's stalls, a habit that held for decades. You'll also hear about the strict food clock locals still keep here. Order a vermouth before eleven and you'll be keeping it too.