Central Bar by Ricard Camarena

This guide to Central Bar by Ricard Camarena in Valencia opens at five in the morning in 2012, as workers hammer five market stalls into one long counter. A month earlier chef Ricard Camarena had opened his own fine-dining restaurant on his way to two Michelin stars, yet he came back to the market where he bought his produce to open a bar that takes no reservations at all. You'll hear about the esmorzaret, the quick breakfast market porters had always grabbed between deliveries, and the bet Camarena built around it. Expect to stand, there are no tables here.